Alsace Travel Guide: Strasbourg, Colmar, Wine Villages and Christmas Markets

Alsace is the narrow strip of France squeezed between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine, and it feels like nowhere else in the country. Half-timbered houses painted in ochre and blue, storks nesting on church roofs, a dialect closer to German than French, and a wine road that threads through villages so pretty they look staged. Strasbourg and Colmar are the two bases; the villages in between are the reason to stay longer. In December the whole region turns into one long Christmas market. These guides cover the cities, the villages and where to sleep.

Alsace at a glance

  • Where: north-eastern France, on the borders of Germany and Switzerland, between the Vosges and the Rhine.
  • Getting there: TGVs from Paris Gare de l’Est reach Strasbourg in under two hours. EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg is the main airport for the south of the region, and Colmar is around half an hour from Strasbourg by train.
  • How long: two days for Strasbourg, one or two for Colmar, and at least a day for the wine villages. Four to five days covers the region well.
  • Best time: late November to Christmas for the markets; May to October for the wine route, with the grape harvest in September and October.
  • Getting around: trains link Strasbourg, Colmar and the larger towns; a car (or a tour) makes the small wine villages much easier to reach.

Christmas in Alsace

Strasbourg’s Christkindelsmärik dates back to the 16th century and is one of the oldest Christmas markets in Europe, which is why the city calls itself the Capital of Christmas. Colmar’s markets are smaller and arguably prettier, spread across the old town and Little Venice, and villages like Riquewihr, Kaysersberg and Eguisheim run their own. Hotels near the markets fill up early, so book as soon as your dates are fixed.

Strasbourg

Alsace’s capital is home to the European Parliament, a sandstone Gothic cathedral visible from almost anywhere in the old town, and the UNESCO-listed Grande Île, wrapped in canals.

Colmar

Smaller, softer and more colourful than Strasbourg, Colmar is the classic base for the wine route, with the villages a short drive or bus ride away.

The villages and the wine route

The Route des Vins d’Alsace runs for around 170 km along the foot of the Vosges, through vineyards producing Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Crémant d’Alsace. Stop in the villages for tarte flambée, choucroute and a kougelhopf from the bakery.

Plan and book your Alsace trip

Compare hotels, guided tours, car hire and flights in one place. Hotels near the Christmas markets book out early.

Where to stay

Alsace FAQs

Is Strasbourg or Colmar a better base?

Strasbourg suits a city break with more museums, restaurants and train connections. Colmar is the better base for the wine villages and has a more compact, storybook old town. With four days or more, split your stay between the two.

When are the Alsace Christmas markets open?

Most open in the last week of November and run until around Christmas Eve, with some staying open until the end of December. Dates vary by town each year, so check the official listings before booking.

Do you need a car in Alsace?

Not for Strasbourg or Colmar, which are well connected by train. For the smaller wine villages a car gives you the most freedom, though local buses and guided tours cover the most popular ones.

Can you visit Alsace from Paris?

Yes — Strasbourg is under two hours by TGV, so a day trip is possible, but two or three nights lets you add Colmar and the villages.