The Best Craft Breweries in Lyon & Rhône-Alpes: A Unique Local Guide
Lyon is a food city first. Everyone knows that. What fewer people realise is that it has one of the better beer scenes in France, and it has had one for a while. The first beer-only bar in the city opened in 1947. The brewery that now defines Lyon beer started in 1997. In between and since, a scattering of bars and pubs has grown up that would make any beer traveller happy.
I have spent a lot of evenings working through the craft breweries in Lyon and the bars that pour them. This is the list I give friends who visit. It covers the one brewery you cannot skip, the historic bars, the places with the deepest selections, and a few spots that are more about the room than the tap list. Then it looks beyond the city into the wider Rhône-Alpes.
Key Takeaways
- Ninkasi is the brewery that defines Lyon beer. Multiple locations, food, concerts, and a presence across the region.
- Le Palais de la Bière has been pouring since 1947 and is the oldest beer bar in the city.
- The Beers in Vieux Lyon and Les Fleurs du Malt by the Saône have the widest selections.
- Wallace Bar in Vaise is the best neighbourhood pub on the list.
- James Joyce and Elephant and Castle are not craft venues, but they earn their place for atmosphere.
Ninkasi: The Brewery That Built Lyon’s Beer Scene
If you only visit one place, make it Ninkasi. Christophe Fargier founded it in 1997 and named it after the Sumerian goddess of beer. It started as a single venue that was a brewery, bar, restaurant, and concert hall at once. That formula worked, and it has since spread to multiple locations across the city and into the wider Rhône-Alpes.
The beer is artisanal and worth trying on its own, but Ninkasi is as much about the evening as the pint. Burgers, salads, live music, a room that gets loud in a good way. It is the kind of place you go for a drink and leave three hours later. It is also the clearest sign of how Lyon’s beer culture has grown. What was one bar is now a regional institution, and it has pulled a lot of smaller producers along with it. The guide to the rise of craft beer in France puts that growth in context.
The Historic Bars
Le Palais de la Bière
This is where Lyon beer history starts. Le Palais de la Bière opened in 1947 as the first bar in the city dedicated only to beer. Walking in feels like stepping back a few decades, and locals treat it with real affection. The beer list is broad, but the food is the surprise. Mussels and fries, local sausages, proper Lyonnais dishes. It is a beer bar that takes the city’s cooking seriously, which feels right for Lyon.
Wallace Bar, Vaise
Wallace Bar has become my Saturday evening default, particularly the Vaise location. Solid beer selection, decent cocktails, English pub food if you want it, and a cheese plate with baguette if you would rather stay French. The staff are quick and friendly in a way that makes you feel like a regular on your first visit. It is less of a destination than Ninkasi and more of a neighbourhood pub, which is exactly why I keep going back.
The Bars with the Deepest Selections
The Beers, Vieux Lyon
Tucked into the old town, The Beers is a low-key pub that feels like a secret even though it is not one. The selection runs past fifty beers, and the menu is laid out by colour and style, from light blondes through ambers to the darker, richer end. There is a good run of fruit beers and a proper range of Trappist ales for anyone who likes something traditional and full-bodied. The music is rock, R&B, and a bit of hip-hop, kept low enough to talk over. It is the right place to sit for a couple of hours and work slowly through the list.
Les Fleurs du Malt, by the Saône
Right on the Saône, with around fifteen taps and a wall of bottles from across Europe. The focus leans local and organic, but you will find French, Belgian, and German beers alongside. Pints start around four euros, which is reasonable for a riverside spot. On a mild evening it is hard to beat for sitting outside and trying something new while the light goes down over the water.
Two Pubs That Are Not Craft, but Still Worth Knowing
Lyon has a couple of expat pubs that regularly end up on my route, not because of the beer list but because of the room.
James Joyce Pub, in Vieux Lyon, is a small Irish bar with a welcoming mix of locals and visitors. The reason I remember it most clearly is a brutally hot summer afternoon when its air conditioning felt like a public service. A cold Guinness, a quiet corner, staff who are happy to chat. Simple, and very good at what it does.
Elephant and Castle Pub does the English version. English beers, some from a brewery in Bedfordshire, which is rare in Lyon. Fish and chips, pies, a full English breakfast at any hour. The staff are international and speak fluent English, so it is an easy landing spot if you are new to the city and want somewhere familiar for an evening.
Neither will teach you much about French brewing. Both will give you a good night.
Beyond Lyon: The Rhône-Alpes Scene
The city is the hub, but the region is where it gets interesting. Across the Rhône-Alpes I have come across breweries tied closely to their surroundings. Some lean on the area’s farming past and use local ingredients in inventive ways. Others are reviving older brewing methods that had faded out. The guide to hidden-gem microbreweries in France covers a few of the smaller names worth tracking down.
Ninkasi is the thread that runs through it. Its regional locations keep the same mix of good beer and a lively room, and they have turned into local gathering points rather than just outposts of a Lyon brand. If you want a full day out of the city with beer at the end of it, the day trips from Lyon guide includes the Beaujolais, which pairs well with an evening back at one of the bars above.
A Simple Route through the City
If you want to string these together, Lyon’s geography helps.
- Vieux Lyon gives you The Beers and James Joyce within a short walk of each other.
- The Saône riverside is where Les Fleurs du Malt sits, an easy stroll from the old town.
- Vaise, a little further out, is home to the Wallace Bar I like best.
- Ninkasi has enough locations that one will be near wherever you end up.
Pick two or three for an evening rather than trying to hit all of them. The best moments in Lyon tend to arrive unplanned anyway, usually in the form of a beer you had not heard of or a conversation with the person on the next stool.
Conclusion
Lyon’s beer scene holds onto its history and keeps looking forward at the same time. Ninkasi anchors it, Le Palais de la Bière reminds you how far back it goes, and bars like The Beers and Les Fleurs du Malt give you the range to explore. Step out into the Rhône-Alpes and the picture widens further. If you are curious how this compares with other parts of the country, the guides to craft beer in Alsace and the broader French craft beer market are a good next read.
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Ninkasi?
Ninkasi is Lyon’s best-known craft brewery, founded in 1997. Its venues combine a brewery, bar, restaurant, and concert space, and it now has multiple locations across Lyon and the Rhône-Alpes.
Where Can I Find Old-School Beer Bars in Lyon?
Le Palais de la Bière is the one to visit. It opened in 1947 as the first bar in Lyon dedicated only to beer, and it still serves traditional Lyonnais food alongside its list.
Are There Pubs That Feel like You Are in England or Ireland?
Yes. Elephant and Castle Pub does English beers and classic pub food. James Joyce Pub is a small Irish bar in Vieux Lyon, good for a relaxed pint.
What Makes Wallace Bar Special?
The Vaise location in particular has a friendly neighbourhood feel, a solid beer list, decent cocktails, and staff who make you feel welcome quickly. It is a good pick for a weekend evening with friends.
Is Craft Beer Only in Lyon, or Can I Find It Elsewhere in the Region?
The wider Rhône-Alpes has a growing number of breweries and bars. Ninkasi has expanded into several towns around Lyon, and smaller regional producers are increasingly easy to find.
What Kind of Beers Can I Expect to Find?
Everything from local French craft beers to IPAs, lagers, stouts, Trappist ales, and fruit beers. Most of the bars listed also carry Belgian, German, and other European beers.
